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authorrekado <rekado@elephly.net>2015-08-16 21:05:15 +0200
committerrekado <rekado@elephly.net>2015-08-17 22:56:03 +0200
commitb074fa8551a7717c8d20cdf9206627756a5e0887 (patch)
tree7d0881b1f73e26ae591b256e7eb22dd7643c050f /posts
parent599c8754fd2b024919ec2bc8a504a9af3b65883e (diff)
posts: Convert kobo post and add pictures.
Diffstat (limited to 'posts')
-rw-r--r--posts/2013-07-25-kobo-touch.markdown47
-rw-r--r--posts/2013-07-25-kobo-touch.skr58
2 files changed, 58 insertions, 47 deletions
diff --git a/posts/2013-07-25-kobo-touch.markdown b/posts/2013-07-25-kobo-touch.markdown
deleted file mode 100644
index df6666d..0000000
--- a/posts/2013-07-25-kobo-touch.markdown
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,47 +0,0 @@
----
-title: A look inside the Kobo Touch
-tags: DIY,electronics
----
-
-The e-ink screen of my Kobo Touch ebook reader broke, probably because
-it didn't like being bent regularly. It was a little over a year old
-when it happened, way too soon to give up on it, so I decided to take
-it apart and replace the screen if possible.
-
-If you want to open any device that is held together by plastic parts
-with teeny plastic flaps that snap into each other: use a guitar
-pick. The Jazz III pick (my favourite) is very well suited for the
-job. I used it to pry apart the plastic frame of my netbook before.
-The Kobo touch is really a beautiful device (if you have one, I
-encourage you to look inside) and is much easier to take apart than my
-netbook. The battery is much smaller than I expected and the PCB is
-very clean and ordered.
-
-The screen is glued to a very robust frame (metallic, looks like iron)
-with two stripes of adhesives; with some nudging I could separate the
-two components. The screen's backside is shiny, polished;
-mesmerizing. If you want to keep it that way, don't touch it with your
-filthy fingers.
-
-Originally, I wanted to take the opportunity to upgrade the screen to
-whatever model is compatible with the driver chip. This is printed on
-the chip:
-
- E INK
- TPS65185
- TI 181
- A49F G4
-
-As it was difficult to get detailed documentation on the types of
-panels that can be used with the chip I decided to simply get the same
-model as the broken screen: ED060SCE LF T1. The same screen seems to
-be used in the Nook.
-
-I paid CNY 180 for a replacement. It appears to be a more recent
-revision of the screen; there's a little IC on the flexible connector
-and a few numbers on the labels have changed. It works fine, though
-ghosting seems to be significantly worse. The Kobo UI doesn't always
-force a full page refresh; this only really affects the library
-browser, though. (The refresh rate can be configured for reading
-mode.) The more often a part of the screen is updated the more gray
-noise appears all over the screen. \ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/posts/2013-07-25-kobo-touch.skr b/posts/2013-07-25-kobo-touch.skr
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f4c931d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/posts/2013-07-25-kobo-touch.skr
@@ -0,0 +1,58 @@
+(define meta
+ `((title . "A look inside the Kobo Touch")
+ (date . ,(string->date* "2013-07-25 00:00"))
+ (tags "DIY" "electronics")))
+
+(list
+ (p [The e-ink screen of my Kobo Touch ebook reader broke, probably
+ because it didn’t like being bent regularly. It was a little over
+ a year old when it happened, way too soon to give up on it, so I
+ decided to take it apart and replace the screen if possible.])
+
+ (wide-img "2013/kobo-broken.jpg"
+ "the broken display")
+
+ (p [If you want to open any device that is held together by plastic
+ parts with teeny plastic flaps that snap into each other: use a
+ guitar pick. The Jazz III pick (my favourite) is very well suited
+ for the job. I used it to pry apart the plastic frame of my
+ netbook before. The Kobo touch is really a beautiful device (if
+ you have one, I encourage you to look inside) and is much easier
+ to take apart than my netbook. The battery is much smaller than I
+ expected and the PCB is very clean and ordered.])
+
+ (figure "2013/kobo-inside.jpg"
+ "After removing the back cover")
+
+ (p [The screen is glued to a very robust frame (metallic, looks like
+ iron) with two stripes of adhesives; with some nudging I could
+ separate the two components. The screen’s backside is shiny,
+ polished; mesmerizing. If you want to keep it that way, don’t
+ touch it with your filthy fingers.])
+
+ (p [Originally, I wanted to take the opportunity to upgrade the screen
+ to whatever model is compatible with the driver chip. This is
+ printed on the chip:])
+
+ (pre (code [E INK
+TPS65185
+TI 181
+A49F G4]))
+
+ (wide-img "2013/kobo-driver-chip.jpg"
+ "close-up of the driver chip")
+
+ (p [As it was difficult to get detailed documentation on the types of
+ panels that can be used with the chip I decided to simply get the
+ same model as the broken screen: ED060SCE LF T1. The same screen
+ seems to be used in the Nook.])
+
+ (p [I paid CNY,(~)180 for a replacement. It appears to be a more
+ recent revision of the screen; there’s a little IC on the
+ flexible connector and a few numbers on the labels have changed.
+ It works fine, though ghosting seems to be significantly worse.
+ The Kobo UI doesn’t always force a full page refresh; this only
+ really affects the library browser, though. (The refresh rate can
+ be configured for reading mode.) The more often a part of the
+ screen is updated the more gray noise appears all over the
+ screen.]))